The market in Orvieto is every Thursday and Saturday mornings. I’m not sure what time it begins, nor am I even certain when the earliest I’ve arrived is (being on a different time zone than everyone back home has made me oddly unaware of time altogether). But when we go ambling down one of the many alleys towards Piazza del Popolo on one of these mornings, it’s always there in full force already. 7:30 am? 8:30 am? The Italians are there, as they have been week after week since we’ve arrived. It’ll be hard to imagine the hustle and bustle that takes place here once I’m back in Massachusetts. It’ll hard to imagine all of it, these streets, the cappuccinos being ordered at Montanucci, the boats cruising by Positano, once we’re home. Like some other world we’re living in altogether.
The market here is great. There are farmer’s markets back home, of course, but I don’t go to them hoping to more-than-fill my canvas (of course) bag with organic romaine and cucumbers, tomatoes and string beans. You’ll pay a pretty penny for that. I go for the people watching, the coffee, and maybe a specialty item or two, even if it is a bit of a splurge–some local honey, or a small bag of granola. Here in Orvieto, this is where we buy the majority of our produce, sometimes our cheese, a bag of almonds the size of which I’ve communicated with my hands and maybe added, “five euro?” It’s where, it seems, the whole town gets their fresh produce, even clothes or linens or a random kitchen supply, flowers, potted plants, fish and salami. You’ll see an old man weighing apples with an ancient scale, and you’re pretty certain he’s been here two days a week doing this very thing since the beginning of time.
The peaches are to-die-for. I don’t leave the market without at least four and then, two days later, when they have the slightest give to them, I cut them up and eat them plain or with yogurt and granola. I wish I could give you all one. Some tomatoes, different sizes, some still on the vine, always make their way home with us usually to be made into a caprese later on. And then salad fixings, apples. I stop by the cheese truck and there’s testers of each kind out in a little plastic dish. I pick a hard and salty pecorino romano and eat it plain with eggs in the morning or with pieces over a vinegary arugula salad. The almonds are perfect for those emergency hunger-is-getting-the-best-of-us-but-we’ve-got-to-catch-this-bus times. The market. We like it there.
So beautiful! If we ever make our way over there, I think this kind of thing is what I'm most looking forward to – not necessarily all the big sights but the everyday things that are done so differently from here.
It surprises me that as a foodie you eschew the farmers markets at home. These are your local farmers selling directly to you without the intermediary of a store. The food is not being shipped across the country and the cucumbers are not imported from Mexico. If it seems expensive to you it is only b/c you and most of our country are accustomed to industrial food. Please support your local farmers or they will not be able to support their families and continue providing us with real food.
Oh I do support the local farmers. Most of my groceries come from a local farm in NH actually (and meat and raw milk too). This particular farmer's market I am speaking of is quite expensive (I know it's not entirely their own fault, either), and I need to choose wisely where I spend our money. Most of our food is shopped for locally. I understand your comment though!
Oh good. I am glad your family is eating local abroad and at home! Also, could you do a post on how you managed the big kids' school situation while you're gone? Are they doing independent studies, simply skipping a semester, or ??
This sounds absolutely lovely! I always found markets abroad to be the perfect way to get a glimpse into public/private life there. It's amazing to see the community in action and get a taste (pun intended!) of the regional specialities. Now, about those peaches…
*Sigh.* "You'll see an old man weighing apples with an ancient scale, and you're pretty certain he's been here two days a week doing this very thing since the beginning of time." –> Hehe! 🙂 This all sounds so romantic!
Italian markets, I love those. French ones are super as well so I can't complain. Cute pics.