A quick guide to Florence! Mostly the eating.

Florence! What a fantastic city. Steve and I spent a mere day there on our way to Cinque Terre five years ago and in that short a time, I knew I liked the place and wanted to return. It just has a good feel about it, I don’t know. Our time there this trip was still too short, by a long shot, but it’s good to not feel as though you’ve had your way with a city entirely. The need to see more, do more is what makes you return right? I will return. In fact, I’ve now declared that if I had to live in Italy, I’d want it to be in the Florence area.

You and me, Florence! Our time is not up!

Florence feels do-able to me. It doesn’t feel totally intimidating. It doesn’t feel like the cars are in a contest to try to kill as many American tourists as they can in one day. (I’m writing this from Rome, so what am I suggesting?) On foot, you can see Ponte Vecchio, Pitti Palace, Uffizi Gallery, Palazzo Vecchio… and then some, and really within a short time frame.

I like to wander, but then when it comes to actual money being exchanged (for food, for leather goods, for whatever), I want to do it where it counts. I am not the girl who’s going to stop just anywhere for a croissant or a margherita pizza. But is this the best margherita pizza in the city? Is this where the locals go for their cappuccino? Is this place a tourist trap?! Come on, sometimes sugar crashes are imminent and when traveling with kids you just need straight up calories–doesn’t matter what, just shovel some food down the gullet–but I feel like I did my due diligence in Florence and went to some really good places. Now I’m going to tell you what they are because that’s what good bloggers do.

All’Antico Vinaio. Enormous sandwiches. Pretty sure locals and the tourists alike go as there were many English speakers standing in line. There are two, right across the street from each other, and the sandwiches are built inside the freshest focaccia bread. I’m talking cut-in-front-of-you-and-you-watch-the-steam-rise-from-them fresh. You’ll see stacks of focaccia crossing the street from one store to the other (I think one side is strictly where the baking takes place), and it smells fabulous. There are many variations you can get with all those Italian meats–porchetta, proscuitto, et cetera–but if you want tacchino (turkey) you can get that too and don’t let them talk you out of it! Sometimes us Americans want turkey, dammit! With that said, I got salami one day and turkey the next. Both were good. In addition to your meat, there are grilled vegetables like eggplant and zucchini, plus a sort of pecorino cream, balsamic vinegar, greens, and more. (Not pesto. They’re apparently fairly snooty about this fact. “This is not Liguria. NO PESTO.”) Your sandwich will be packed, your bread will have just the perfect amount of crunch on the outside while maintaining soft insides, and they wrap it up in plastic with a napkin to catch the inevitable drips, and off you go. For this? 5 euros! We went a few times because where can you feed–and fill–the whole family for 20 euros (Parker opted out)?! With this crew, nowhere. Bonus: pour your own wine to sip on the street or while in line for 2 euros. Don’t be intimidated by the lines–they move pretty fast. (Us chowing down pictured above–yes, the one of Anders crying in the stroller while Parker sleeps on. #Travelwithkids.)

All’Antico Vinaio

Via dei Neri 74

Ditta Artigianale. A sweet little coffee shop that will also give you American breakfast if you wish. A little NYC meets Portland, OR meets Italy. So… hipster. The prerequisite to getting a job here is having beard oil in your medicine cabinet, that sort of place. Parker got a pancake here, and I had eggs one day. Delicious coffee, nice ambience, good tunes (I think they played Madeline Peyroux the whole time which made me very happy.). They also make a good cappuccino. (Though, to be fair, I don’t think I’ve had a bad one yet–even at the basic train stop cafes. Is Italy really so good at them or do I have seriously unimpressive tastebuds?) This is worth a stop to sit and sip.

P.S. Artigianale basically means “artisan/craft” so you are bound to see this a lot. For instance, “Gelato artigianale.” It’s basically always a positive, so go to these places.

Ditta Artigianale

Via dei Neri 32

La Menagere. This place is probably one of the most beautiful coffee shops/restaurants I have ever stepped foot in. I think I actually gasped when I went in. Eye-candy EVERYWHERE. I’m sure they are completely over women like me snapping pictures with their iPhones or cameras instead of sipping the damn coffee they just ordered but it is beyond. (A few pictures of the place above.) There is a flower shop in it, some kitchen goods, breakfast, and then lunch/dinner. There’s also this enormous table (like 50 seats) where you can sit for dinner, amongst strangers. It’s stunning. It has these enormous doors that open right out onto the streets, lots of tables, free wifi. Jazz on the basement level certain evenings. One time we went and it was totally great, the other time the service was sub-par but I forgive them because the place is just too pretty so I will forever give it a second chance. Also, the woman who runs the flower shop there is super sweet. And her arrangements are unreal (click on the link and scroll through!). Bonus, the street it’s on has some good shopping and is right by the Duomo.

La Menagere

Via de’Ginori 8r

Il Latini. We met Jora and Bryan and kids here and it was one of our favorite meals of the whole trip. Since you won’t be able to actually meet this fabulous family (who’s well-versed in all things Florence after spending a lot of time there) and have them order for you, I’ll tell you what to get because it was all delicious (and for those who recommended Gato e la Volpe on IG, this is similar but better). Ribollita! Pappa al pomodoro! Steak! This is all ultimate comfort food. The steak will be as large as your head and really, really delicious. Like you’ll want to go in face first. The ribollita was on a huge dish, and passed, family style as well as the pappa al pomodoro that came in a big white bowl. Whether this is how it always is or whether Bryan and Jora specified in Italian, I’m not sure. We also got a mixed appetizer–bruschetta mista (mixed) and one had chicken liver on it. At first I was like… no. Then I ate more than my share because it was so good. I would recommend that you go here. That’s probably obvious.

Il Latini

Via dei Palchetti, 6R

Gucci Museo. Right on Piazza della Signoria, there’s a big, classy outside seating with both tables and chairs and comfy couch-like spots to plop down on. (On second thought, don’t plop. It’s Gucci after all. Sit down daintily.) We went here after sandwiches so it was mostly for a small bite and wine. The waiter was one of my favorites yet. Nice, professional, great presentation with the wine. You know how at fancy place they pour a tiny bit in someone’s glass and that person tastes it? That was Steve and if you know Steve you know he’s not really equipped to be the “taster” (nor am I!) but he put on his sommelier hat that day and was all, “Yes, very good.” We also got a selection of cheeses and some bruschetta. All really good. There’s a bookstore and coffee shop inside and also a museum, I suppose? But, surprise surprise, I’m specifically talking about the restaurant here. A sometimes good rule of thumb is to avoid most places on the big piazzas but not this one. This was great, and has a killer view. (Also recommended to us by Bryan and Jora–you can’t miss with them!)

Gucci Museo

Piazza della Signoria

What else? Walk the streets! Get gelato! Get coffee! Sit on a stoop and watch the motorcycles buzz by! Cross the Arno and walk along the Pitti Palace or the Piazzale Michelangelo or Fiesole (though I’ve heard some say that’s overrated? And if it’s for views alone, I think you can get them without going so far out of town?). Ride the carousel in Piazza della Repubblica! Look at the statues in Palazzo Vecchio! One of the days we were there, a huge group of school children from Rome were on a scavenger hunt. Two of their tasks were: 1) to explain the statues to a tourist and 2) take a selfie with a tourist. Needless to say, I’m in at least eight selfies. I imagine them showing their teacher for a grade at the end, “That girl… again?!”Edited to add: Il Mercato Centrale! Such a fun place to hang out. Similar to Eataly, if you’ve been. Fresh food all around. You can eat and drink there, take food away, groceries… even a cooking school. (And burgers for the one’s missing home.) Check it out!

Enjoy Florence. It’s so great.

(And add your own recommendations below!)

A quick guide to Florence! Mostly the eating.

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