Tales of Me and the Husband

weekend links.

We’ve been in Zurich with friends (last time we saw them was when we were engaged in Switzerland… almost ten (!!) years ago) for a few days after having some serious R&R time in Wengen. I’ll be back with more about that, but for now I will declare that Wengen should be very near the top of your must-see list. It is simply stunning. I have so many pictures to share next week. Hope you guys are doing well!

I’m excited to read Meg’s new book. Congratulations Meg!!!

Balmain for H&M collection!

This is such a beautiful coat and I want one in every color.

I want to stay here.

I love this post of Anna’s (or any post of hers). It’s like reading a lovely journal complete with pretty pictures.

I had too much fun watching these 73 questions with celebrities videos.

I flipped through this coloring book the other day. Great for kids (and, even, for me?).

A forever great boot.

13 things to do with pumpkin seeds. Tis the season! (Pumpkin seed hummus?!)

See you next week!

More about our time in Rome, plus a guide to our favorite eating we did while there!

CLICK FOR MORE!

Is that picture not the best?? Italian women, man! 
If I rode a motorcycle I am certain I wouldn’t look nearly as chic.
In fact, here I am doing the robot. Not even a little bit chic.



In Rome, fill your water bottle at every fountain. It’s convenient and it’s quaint and the water tastes great. Parker loved filling the bottles, and then drinking it in order to refill it again. At first, you hesitate. This water? It’s drinkable? It is and everyone does it!

I cannot remember if this is a street in Monti or Trastevere. Which is terrible. An enormous difference between Italy and the States? A street this small, with restaurant tables set up to boot, would absolutely be pedestrian only. (And, I wish they were in Italy too!) There was a lot of maneuvering for cars and motorcycles on streets that you would assume are car-free. Not so! 
I love this picture. And would you look at that ivy? 
Rome has some strong ivy-growing-on-walls game.
Parker babysits Anders at St. Peter’s while we wait in line to get in. 
Everybody’s gotta pitch in in this family! 
Watching the pope! We saw him at noon on Sunday when he gives the papal blessing. I’m really glad we did that. (You can also see him on Wednesdays!) This wouldn’t typically interest me all that much, but with this particular pope, I loved it. (Now to get a translation of what he said…)
My friend Jenny who flew to Rome and also wore Parker on her 
shoulders when he forgot how to walk. She is the best.
We made a point to go to the Villa Borghese Gardens 
(which was sort of on my list, but became REALLY ON MY LIST after my homesick post; 
so many of you told me I had to go, and I’m so glad we did.). 
It reminds me a bit of Central Park? A nice quiet space in an otherwise bustling city!
The view of Rome from the top of Piazza del Popolo at the Borghese gardens is awesome. 
Especially at sunset!
The saddest attempt at a family picture, right? But it’s the Colosseum!
I’m writing this from a quiet spot in Switzerland, breathing fresh cold air, coming down off the buzzing high that is Rome. I want to write it now as I don’t want to forget some of the details worth passing on to a future Rome-traveler (though, the online resources for one traveling to Rome are plentiful) but I do wonder how I would write it differently, as more time passes. Well, it’s moot, because here I am, and I am writing! 
Not true. I’m going to copy and paste what Steve wrote earlier to update his own friends and family. He’s got a way with words, that guy. Plus, he has a way better recall for it all than I do. And he visited more places. So, while his list is huge, Anders, Parker, and I didn’t visit all of them. Nay, we were busy strolling the streets at a four-year old’s pace. Let’s put it this way: happy four year old, happy everybody.
(And below Steve’s, I’ll do a brief guide as best I can. And then, it’s a wrap, Rome!)
Now here’s Steve:
Here is a rather longish report about our time in Rome, which has now come to an end. In fact, as I write, we are high up in the Swiss Alps in the tiny little town of Wengen, near Interlaken. We flew from Rome to Zurich, where we rented a car and drove to Lauterbrunnen. There we parked and took the train—the only way to Wengen, unless you want to hike—straight up into the mountains. At this point, we’re unpacked and settled, enjoying the most spectacular view of the Jungfrau, although we can’t always see it for the clouds and fog. We’ve already made a Swiss fondue for dinner. The green grass in the valleys, the yellow leaves falling from the trees, the red geraniums in the window boxes, a light covering of snow still on the evergreens, well, it’s all just breathtaking. We’re pretty short on winter gear here, so the owner of the home we’re staying in dropped off some coats/hats. She’s very sweet and her home is absolutely perfect in every way. It has five balconies. We figure that’s one for everyone except Anders, which is just as well since he’s too young to hang out on his own balcony anyway. Since it’s off-season, we got a great deal on the place. Good thing too: we just bought, by our reckoning, about 50 bucks worth of groceries. The cost here: 175. Life ain’t cheap in Switzerland. Still, we really want to know why we can’t be Swiss and live here too. And, here’s some news: after our morning hike, William and Lindsey just announced that they are never going home again. 

What about Rome? you ask. Rome is craziness and history and beauty all rolled into one. Let me condense the crazy for you in four images: think about constant wailing sirens (like watching a Jason Bourne movie all day and night); envision millions of motorcycles and scooters (for which, apparently, there are no rules at all) swerving in and out of traffic, racing between cars and trucks to get to the front of the line at every light; picture Nuns (always, always 4’10” tall) pushing their way onto over-crowded public transportation systems covered in graffiti; and then think about Romans boldly stepping off the curb to cross 4 lanes of on-coming traffic, staring that traffic to a stop. (We had to learn this trick too, since you can’t spend the whole day waiting on a curb. Stroller or no stroller, no one’s gonna to stop if you don’t make them.) Now, as a bonus image, just add in tour buses, lots of tour buses, and the hordes of people getting off those buses to snap pictures while following a tour guide who’s holding an umbrella high in the air. There it is. You’ve now got a pretty good picture of Rome.

And let me tell you this. When in Rome, you better mind your step. If you don’t, you’ll either step in dog poop or you’re going to twist your ankle. But if you’re only thinking about your feet, you’re going to get run over. Know that everyone on wheels is trying to kill you (an exaggeration for effect). It’s definitely not kid friendly. Chaos was the word that came to mind repeatedly. One night we even got caught up in what appeared to be a massive anti-mafia demonstration. There were riot police everywhere and, foolishly, we stumbled right into it. When the police got a look at this ridiculous family with their city select baby jogger stroller and then the massive, angry crowd behind them, they waved us right through their lines. It was pretty exciting. All the big men with helmets and guns and shields and their armored vehicles with cages on the windows…well, it was quite the sight. Parker had big eyes. William too.

We spent 17 wonderful (hectic) days in Rome and I have to say we’re literally exhausted. There is so much to do there. If you love history, as I do, Rome is the best. (Yes, Jerusalem’s pretty great too.) I bet we walked between 8-10 miles every day, maybe more, and a couple of those days were in the rain. We saw dozens and dozens of beautiful churches, including 18 of the 28 so-called “title” churches. We saw ancient frescoes and amazing mosaics, and more church relics than I could tell you about. (That’s not true: I wrote everyone of them down.) We saw ruins upon ruins. We walked this piazza and that piazza and a dozen more besides. We saw St. Peter’s, some Catacombs, ancient bath complexes, the Pantheon, the Colosseum, the Forum, the Palatine hill, Circus Maximus, Largo Argentina, Hadrian’s Mausoleum, Trajan’s column, Augustus’ Ara Pacis, Nerva’s Forum, the Theater of Marcellus, the Borghese gardens, etc., etc., etc. You name it, we saw it. (That’s not true either: I still have a long list of things to see in Rome.) We saw Caravaggio paintings, Bernini sculptures, Michaelangelo architecture. It is a most remarkable place. We went to all sorts of museums too (Palazzo Massimo, right next to Termini station, being my favorite). I suppose, if they’re honest, William and Lindsey will say they don’t need to see any more marble busts of dead emperors. We walked ancient roads in Trastevere and modern jogging paths along the Tiber. We strolled the tiny little ally-ways of the Jewish Ghetto, noting the names (marked in paving stones) of those poor souls who were rounded up by the Nazi’s in 1943. We also walked the Corso, a main road which becomes pedestrian friendly every evening. We did this, with what appeared to be the rest of Italy, several times. What a sight. (Confession: we did this mostly when we wanted to get to Brillo Burger out near Piazza del Popolo. But we don’t care if you judge us—after carbs for breakfast, lunch, and dinner for over two months, we’ve been craving burgers and theirs are unbelievably good.) Oh, and we saw Pope Francis on two occasions. That was pretty cool. Better still was seeing our friend Jenny (who came from Maine to visit for a whole week!), my old friends from grad-school, Alan and Michelle, a former student, and our friend Sylvia from Orvieto, as well as Matt, an artist in Orvieto, who came for the day to take William, Lindsey and I on an art history tour of the city.

We went out for almost every meal, since the place we rented did not really have a kitchen. And, truth be told, you can eat pretty cheap in Rome, when you know where to look. If I see another Margherita pizza, however, I will kill someone (another exaggeration). That said, the Best Pizza Award in Rome for me is a tie: Pizzeria Remo (just south of the Aventine Hill and a couple blocks off the Tiber) and Forno Campo de Fiori (in Campo de Fiori)—thanks, Matt, for adding that into the tour! We did eat some other great meals too. Two stand out in my memory: Da Enzo in Trastevere and Cuba near Piazza Navona. Get the Carbonara at the former and the Amatriciana at the latter; both were to die for. And let me say, I never will tire of good bruschetta. While tomatoes apparently originated in the Americas, the Italians perfected them.

We left every morning around 7 AM, stopping at a wonderful little bakery about 4 doors down from our place for cappuccinos and croissants. The owner was a French trained pastry chef who made miracles out of chocolate. Bridget surprised me with some special treats from this place on my birthday. After touring all day, we would return home typically around 9 PM. Collapsing into bed (after icing my feet, that is), I’d stay up for hours either trying to come up with a game-plan for the following day or reading more about what I just saw that day. I literally wore out my map of Rome. And I loved every crazy minute of it. As for Parker and Anders, they were really pretty good despite how hard we pushed them. Thank God for that stroller that Bridget insisted we bring along from home. In sum, to paraphrase a famous Roman, we came, we saw, we conquered. But our feet hurt.

So this trip is winding down. We will be back home in less than three weeks! While we’ve had a great adventure, we are all ready for some normalcy too. This week “stuck” in a chalet in the Alps with nothing important to do and no-where to go (except to take some beautiful hikes) could not have come at a better time. But just like that, and I know it will all be over. Here’s what will happen when it is: I will spend the final two months of my sabbatical getting some more work done while I sip coffee in my own leather chair in the comfort of my own home.

EATS IN ROME:


Pizzeria da Remo
This place had the best pizza ever. Or something very, very close. It is soooo thin (just the way I like it); more Roman than Neapolitan, and the edges of the crust are burnt, blackened, perfect. It’s crispy on the outsides, but has a bit of a thin chewy center. The pizzas take all of five minutes to be placed in front of you and they’re made by the cheeriest Italian man who looks thrilled when you enter the door. Total hole in the wall in the Testaccio neighborhood. Bonus: there’s a playground across the street in a little park. Otherwise, there’s not a whole lot happening in this part of Rome but it is well worth it for the pizza. We went twice in three days (both times, walking in the rain because it’s that good). The first time we went, we got two salads to share, two plates of bruschetta, a big thing of their house wine, and six pizzas. Total bill: 59 euros. 
Only open for dinner from 7 pm on; we heard there’s a line if you’re not there right on time.

Pizzeria da Remo
Piazza di Santa Maria Liberatrice, 44


(Here’s where Dar Poeta in Trastevere gets a mention because the pizza was very good, but I still think da Remo beats it in more ways than one. Plus, we had not so good service here, but I will say I really liked the variety of bruschettas you could order. The ricotta with pesto one was a favorite.)

Forno Campo De’Fiori (pictured above)
Really good slices of greasy pizza, chopped in half and closed sandwich-like, before being wrapped in brown paper. Next door you can see the man making it all! Fun atmosphere too, right at the big Campo De’Fiori. Apparently has great pizza bianca too though I never tried it.

Forno Campo De’Fiori
Campo De’Fiori

La Sandwicheria (pictured above)
Great stop for a fresh sandwich near the Trevi Fountain. Fresh crunchy focaccia bread, big chalkboard menu with all sorts of sandwich names on it. I believe I got number 21 each time? The sandwiches are generous (not as enormous as Al’Antico Vinaio) and priced at 4 euros! No inside seating but Piazza di San Silvestro just down the way has lots of seating.

La Sandwicheria
Largo del Nazareno


Da Enzo
Fun spot in a little alley in Trastevere with packed in seats, and real Italian cooking. We came here on one of our first days, a rainy one, and it was a cozy atmosphere. Try the burrata–a cheese that, from the outside, looks like mozzarella, but when you break into it, it’s creamy inside. Eat alongside their tomatoes and bread and it is delicious! Also worth mentioning is the carbonara with generous chunks of pancetta. Less mention goes to the fried artichoke. It can be skipped.

Da Enzo
Via dei Vascellari, 29


Ciao Checca 
I was psyched to stumble upon this place on a long walk (our first solo walk in Rome) with the two little ones. It had a good ambience (bright, white tiled walls, huge bunches of fresh fruit and vegetables behind the counter) that seemed promising. It’s theme is slow street food with locally sourced ingredients. I had a lentil salad that had some creamy cheese on top, and Parker and I shared some chicken tenders and pesto. The pesto was one of the best of the whole trip and the chicken was definitely a made-right-there-fresh variety. Fresh juices (centrifughe) were also available. It was a nice break from a carb-heavy meal.

Ciao Checca 

Piazza di Firenze, 25


San Teo
A few doors down from where we stayed, San Teo (no name outside?) was my favorite pasticceria of the entire 2 1/2 months. I can’t imagine it falls short of what you’d come to expect at a fabulous place in Paris either. The little desserts are not only beautiful but so delicious and their breakfast pastries are unbelievable. Chocolate croissants, plain, cream (not overwhelmingly so!) with chocolate chips… I forgot my whole “eggs-are-better-for-you” routine and had a pastry almost every morning we were there (sometimes two). The cappuccinos are so good too, the people are friendly, and it’s ridiculously reasonable. Three croissants and four cappuccinos and you’ll still be under 10 euros.

San Teo
Via di San Teodoro 88

Grom
Yes it’s a chain and so because of that alone a lot of people want to look the other way but man! This was maybe my favorite straciatella of the entire trip. Like so good. I went to Frigidarium and Come Il Latte and this beat both (especially Come Il Latte–I wasn’t impressed!). Yum yum yummmmmm.

Grom
Via della Maddalena, 30a



Brillo Burger (pictured above)
Great, great burgers. By American standards too. Fun menus where you check off how you want it–endless toppings–and out comes your delicious burger. Near Piazza di Popolo. 12 euros a burger, however, so not the cheapest eats. They have their own draft beer too!

Brillo Burger
Via della Fontanella, 8

Other fun food-related things: Eataly in Rome is huge and has all sorts of lovely grocery items for sale on the first floor. We grabbed some chocolate here, and I wanted to buy all of the yogurt in glass containers. Good thing for a rainy day too, perhaps? A bit of a hike to get there, depending on where you’re staying. We all sort of wanted to kill each other on this trek, but then we arrived. Disaster averted. On Via di San Teodoro there’s a big market every Saturday and Sunday that’s worth going to. Grab a fresh juice from the guy in the back! (I got fennel, spinach, lemon, and pair and it was really good. You can get it just after your carb-overload from San Teo.)

Anders at 10 months.

This boy is 10 months old today (okay, he was ten months old when I began writing this last week. Now he’s like ten and a half months old and it was like only three seconds ago?). I have nothing new to say about this, about how time whiplash is very real, nor will I ever get an answer to the constantly nagging question of how are we already here. I’ve said it all a million times and in a million different ways but still it’s there demanding an answer knowing full well that an answer will never come. Instead, I’m trying new things. To just let it be. It is what it is. To acknowledge that swiftly moving time is simply a mother’s cross to bear, harder for some than others (I’m one of those. It is very, very hard for me.). But acknowledging its sadness means you must also acknowledge its blessing. They travel hand-in-hand. I love these days and so I don’t want these days to end. On and on it goes.

Instead of all of that which I said I wouldn’t say but said anyway, let’s talk about Anders, shall we? He is a beautiful, bouncing baby boy (who’s mother apparently has a thing for alliteration) and we’re totally in love with him. He wakes up in the morning and moves about the bed, literally unable to stay still, throwing himself on my chest, falling down, sitting up again, finding his voice and holding one note for an impressive length of time. Sometimes he does so with one hand out as if he’s imploring you… to get up with him? To get him a cup of coffee? A croissant? We’re not sure but it’s awfully cute. He has two teeth on the bottom, with a third just peeking through, and one tooth on top with a second (though not the other big front tooth; rather, the one next to it) making its way. He wants to eat food, all food, but nursing is still his favorite and he almost never turns it down. His hair nearly glitters, it’s so shiny and blonde, and his blue eyes are especially cute when he first wakes up, blinking, slightly sleep-swollen, and almost Cabbage-Patch-like. He has gotten so much attention in Italy, from men and women alike, that now if we’re anywhere and people aren’t immediately looking upon him, he stares at them waiting as if to say, “Here I am! Hellooooo!?” He’s starting to stand a little bit, and is especially annoyed if I’m on the bed and he’s on the ground. He’ll lift himself up, exerting every ounce of effort he can muster to do so, and looks up at you begging to be lifted the rest of the way. Sometimes he finds himself in a position that he’s not sure about and he’ll freeze, holding himself in place, crying to be rescued. We rescue him immediately. He doesn’t stay still for a minute and Steve and I liken it to wrestling a baby alligator. If he’s awake, he is moving, grabbing, on the go.  In Italy we were so busy, and our apartments weren’t always the most baby-friendly to a new crawler (a lot of hard tile or ceramic floors!), so now that we’ve arrived in Switzerland, he is in his glory, crawling everywhere, touching things, standing up, sitting down. Parker just set up a train track only to discover Anders quickly crawling towards it. “No, Anders, no!” I explained to Parker that this is his new reality (!!).  In bed at night, I cuddle up next to him when he’s already sleeping soundly, getting my face really close to his. I look at him for a minute or two, basically in awe at how perfect he is and how much I love him, that he came out of my belly. Having babies feels like the closest thing to a miracle that I’ll ever take part in.

Happy ten months, Anders. I completely adore you.

taking stock / 09.

Anders and I at H&M while Lindsey tried things on in the dressing room.

Making: umm… nada. But I can drink a cappuccino with impressive speed!
Cooking: ummm… nada. And would you believe me if I said I’m truly looking forward to my own kitchen / cooking again!?
Drinking: a Peroni, as we speak
Reading: let’s say I wish I’d read this book before coming but I did read her blog and it gave me some good tips.
Wanting: This jacket.

Looking: at suitcases; we’re on the move again.
Playing: we bought some cards at one of those awesome Tiger store and I plan to get into some Gin Rummy with the kids.
Eating: pizza! And so much of it. 
Wishing: my kitchen was full of this beautiful stuff. All. of. it.
Enjoying: Josh Garrels 2015 sampler that was on NoiseTrade the other day.
Loving: That Anders still flaps a bit, a sign that his newborn-ness isn’t completely gone
Hoping: that the rest of our travels go smoothly!
Needing: a big old nutrient packed smoothie
Smelling: currently? Detergent.
Feeling: content
Wearing: these leggings, for the win, always!
Noticing: how much the kids have grown, it’s absurd.
Bookmarking: this article about the Pope (we saw him the other day!)

Roma!

click to read more!!

I’m looking at all these pictures I’ve just loaded (which has slowed the Internet at our place exponentially; William and Lindsey are particularly displeased at the moment.) and am at a loss of where to even begin, what to say, which direction to go! There’s churches, there’s cafes and museums, and alleys and monuments. Some of them are blending in to one another–the churches especially–while other things stand out more. We’ve been here almost two weeks and Rome is exhausting. 

We get in bed each night and crash. I don’t recall the actual falling asleep moments because they’re nonexistent. We wake up in the morning and within moments are out the door again. With the exception of William and Lindsey who inevitably stay up too late the night before. Then Steve and I take turns yelling, “Time to get up! Time to get up!” for a good thirty minutes before we’re actually departing. By minute twenty-seven, when we are actually heading out the door, they then begin to rush around demanding to know why we didn’t wake them up earlier. Sound familiar?

I said this before, but we’re staying near the Forum, so the above is our view around the corner from our place. It’s pretty magical. Granting, I don’t know exactly what I’m looking at, but I try my darnedest to imagine it in its hey-day. (This book is enormously helpful with that sort of thing.) Also helpful with that sort of thing: Steve Hunt. The man knows his stuff. “And here’s where Augustus’ sister’s friend’s dog peed.” Not exactly, but he knows details both big and small. Rome is a big classroom to him.

This one day we decided to head up to the top of the Victor Emmanuel Monument (that enormous white one at the top of the Corso). It was sunny when we went up but by the end of the minute-long elevator ride to the top, it was pouring. And then, a rainbow! A rainbow over Rome no less! It was pretty spectacular. 
Above was one of the lesser good, more expensive meals of the trip. It’s like I said, you can do all the research you want but sometimes HUNGER STRIKES and you find yourself at a tourist trap in front of the Pantheon. Oh well. Lesson learned: restock almond supply daily.

We did get some cute pictures in front of the Pantheon though. This one is a little ridiculous except Anders’ face made it a keeper for me. Pretty sure William and Parker are fighting over the umbrella?

We found a great burger place. You can shake your head at us all you want, but we miss burgers and we’ve eaten here three times in the last two weeks. The burgers are truly delicious. So, if you find yourself in Rome and needing a good dose of iron, stroll to the end of the Corso, just before Piazza del Popolo and grab a Brillo burger. You won’t be sorry.

This picture was from, if I’m not mistaken, the Monti neighborhood? Sort of behind the Domus Aurea, we kept circling it, and the neighborhood was beautiful. Keep going around and you’ll hit their shopping area (the whole of Via Urbana is pretty cute, very hipster, cute cafes).
When I have too much stuff/children to lug around in the old Fiat I’m going to own, enter Land Rover Defender. I’m serious.
This picture could be entitled: “Anders experience of Italy.” Parker’s body language: “Get away from me, nun.”
Steve maintains that he prefers the old Coopers to the old Fiats. I think it’s because he had one when he lived in England so it’s nostalgia talking because the old Fiat is the perfect car and don’t you dare disagree with me.
I have lots more to say, and I’ll try to round it all up, guide form, like I did for Florence. Those of you who hate travel, hate Italy (is there someone who hates Italy?) are probably reeeeeally bored with Tales of Me and the Husband as of late, huh? 
It’ll be back to life in Boston soon!

weekend links.

My gelato from Come Il Latte. I have to say (in a whisper) it gets big points for beauty but not as many for taste (or location!!). I think Grom and Pasqualetti (in Orvieto) beat it in a landslide.

Steve sent me this commercial to include in this round-up. It’s pretty darn cute.

What happened when one woman read The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up. Hilarious. (Thanks, Kate!)

These clogs are absolutely beautiful.

My two thoughts: It’s been TEN YEARS (?!?) and RPattz’s fiancé’s name is FKA Twigs?

I’ve been checking into the weather at home and… it’s chilly. This sweater is awesome.

I’m not really fancy but I do have opinions about my wine glasses (I love when the glass is super thin.). At home, we’ve broken a few of our “nice set” from our wedding, that now I drink out of a cheap stemless set or… even… a mason jar (#hipster). This is apparently the perfect wine glass. (But it comes at a price!)

I’m not really a products junkie but I’ve been without virtually all of my stuff (I didn’t bring one thing for my hair besides… a brush.) since we left home. I did not, however, leave home without this and my skin is grateful.

Thanks for your love on my homesick post. I’m definitely going to bring the boys to the Borghese gardens soon! GREEN SPACE!!! Have a good weekend, friends!

Are you homesick?


I opened myself up to questions about the trip on Facebook the other day and one of them was, as the title suggests, “Are you homesick?” Now this answer could change a bit based on the day I’m being asked but having been here since July 30, I think I have enough perspective to answer thoughtfully.
In short: yes.
This trip, while totally romantic and dreamy (especially when viewed through the lens of Instagram), is also seriously not romantic and dreamy. We are traveling in a foreign country! With four kids! And without overnight Amazon shipping options! I’m kidding about that last one! But sort of not? (Hangs head in shame.)
Steve and I were alone recently — us alone? Rarer than a unicorn sighting. We don’t really even know how to have adult conversations anymore. We were finally alone and we simply stared at one another  blinking like… what now? — and we asked each other the typical questions: what do you miss about home, are you happy you did this, what would you do differently. 
We miss certain foods (Mexican! Giant salads and burgers!), the comforts of our own home (a cushy rug for Anders to crawl around on! my dryer! my own kitchen and supplies!), my cleaning supplies (I like my crunchy cleaning supplies, okay!?!), our friends (since we don’t speak Italian fluently we mostly talk to each other. We love each other but sometimes we’re also sick of each other?). We are totally happy we did this and are pretty certain we’ll look back like, “Did that really happen? Was it all a dream?” Even if, at times when in it, we’re like “EFF THIS,” we are still aware that it’s really cool, we have learned so much, we have grown in all sorts of ways, we have seen some incredible places, we have had some once-in-a-lifetime moments. And to do things differently? Maybe a little more time here, a little less time there, a different Airbnb (bigger, smaller, better kitchen, better location, etc.). For instance this current Airbnb, which also is our longest rental, doesn’t really have a kitchen. I knew from the listing that it was basic but didn’t really realize just how basic. It’s more of a glorified table really. A sink, two induction plates, and a tiny fridge (you know, like the kind you had under your bed in college). I told Steve this morning I have about one cubic foot of kitchen “workspace.” It turns out eating out does get old! (And expensive.)
Rome is really freaking cool in a lot of ways. I’m currently in a strange love-hate with it. You can’t spit without having it land on something really, really old. To clarify, I don’t make a habit of spitting, here or at home. Steve’s sort of in his element here–Nero burned all of this down! Augustus Caesar probably walked right here, leaving the theatre, to return home right there! It’s fun to watch. He loves history and Rome is jam packed full of it. We can see ruins from our Airbnb! The Forum is literally around the corner! The alleys, the cafes, the piazzas. They’re amazing. I love walking down an alley, not certain of exactly where it will lead, and then you look up and there’s the Pantheon. Or coming upon the prettiest cafe with a chalkboard menu and deciding that you must try their cappuccino because why not? But Rome isn’t exactly a kid-friendly city (let me differentiate the Italian people from their city, however; they are so kid-friendly.). The only nice green space I’ve seen is in front of the Victor Emmanuel Monument and it’s gated off entirely. There’s really no playgrounds to speak of (I lie, there’s two I’ve seen, but they’re very small, basic ones.), no parks. The Circus Maximus could be amazing! What a vast empty space it is! But it’s in serious disrepair–litter and broken glass everywhere. I realize this is a complicated issue of government and funding in an ancient city but, coming from the Boston area, where you can’t walk more than a mile without passing a park or a playground, I’m missing them badly. My own needs? Rome more than meets them. A quiet corner cafe, a good book, a glass of wine, people-watching for days, a nighttime stroll. But the needs you have when there are children to keep happy are, of course, quite different. Steve and I looked at each other yesterday at a low point in the day–let’s say we’d all reached our limit of together time–and sort of just laughed. “It’s the nature of the beast,” I said. He agreed.
Do I sound whiny? I’ve had moments here where I’ve thought, “XYZ is hard. Should I blog about this? Will it sound like I’m complaining? Will my readers roll their eyes at me?” I might be rolling my eyes at me if I were you too. But it’s honest. I can’t help but give the honest parts too. That’s what this post is. You asked!

A quick guide to Florence! Mostly the eating.

Florence! What a fantastic city. Steve and I spent a mere day there on our way to Cinque Terre five years ago and in that short a time, I knew I liked the place and wanted to return. It just has a good feel about it, I don’t know. Our time there this trip was still too short, by a long shot, but it’s good to not feel as though you’ve had your way with a city entirely. The need to see more, do more is what makes you return right? I will return. In fact, I’ve now declared that if I had to live in Italy, I’d want it to be in the Florence area.
You and me, Florence! Our time is not up!
Florence feels do-able to me. It doesn’t feel totally intimidating. It doesn’t feel like the cars are in a contest to try to kill as many American tourists as they can in one day. (I’m writing this from Rome, so what am I suggesting?) On foot, you can see Ponte Vecchio, Pitti Palace, Uffizi Gallery, Palazzo Vecchio… and then some, and really within a short time frame.
I like to wander, but then when it comes to actual money being exchanged (for food, for leather goods, for whatever), I want to do it where it counts. I am not the girl who’s going to stop just anywhere for a croissant or a margherita pizza. But is this the best margherita pizza in the city? Is this where the locals go for their cappuccino? Is this place a tourist trap?! Come on, sometimes sugar crashes are imminent and when traveling with kids you just need straight up calories–doesn’t matter what, just shovel some food down the gullet–but I feel like I did my due diligence in Florence and went to some really good places. Now I’m going to tell you what they are because that’s what good bloggers do.
All’Antico Vinaio. Enormous sandwiches. Pretty sure locals and the tourists alike go as there were many English speakers standing in line. There are two, right across the street from each other, and the sandwiches are built inside the freshest focaccia bread. I’m talking cut-in-front-of-you-and-you-watch-the-steam-rise-from-them fresh. You’ll see stacks of focaccia crossing the street from one store to the other (I think one side is strictly where the baking takes place), and it smells fabulous. There are many variations you can get with all those Italian meats–porchetta, proscuitto, et cetera–but if you want tacchino (turkey) you can get that too and don’t let them talk you out of it! Sometimes us Americans want turkey, dammit! With that said, I got salami one day and turkey the next. Both were good. In addition to your meat, there are grilled vegetables like eggplant and zucchini, plus a sort of pecorino cream, balsamic vinegar, greens, and more. (Not pesto. They’re apparently fairly snooty about this fact. “This is not Liguria. NO PESTO.”) Your sandwich will be packed, your bread will have just the perfect amount of crunch on the outside while maintaining soft insides, and they wrap it up in plastic with a napkin to catch the inevitable drips, and off you go. For this? 5 euros! We went a few times because where can you feed–and fill–the whole family for 20 euros (Parker opted out)?!  With this crew, nowhere. Bonus: pour your own wine to sip on the street or while in line for 2 euros. Don’t be intimidated by the lines–they move pretty fast. (Us chowing down pictured above–yes, the one of Anders crying in the stroller while Parker sleeps on. #Travelwithkids.)
All’Antico Vinaio
Via dei Neri 74
Ditta Artigianale. A sweet little coffee shop that will also give you American breakfast if you wish.  A little NYC meets Portland, OR meets Italy. So… hipster. The prerequisite to getting a job here is having beard oil in your medicine cabinet, that sort of place. Parker got a pancake here, and I had eggs one day. Delicious coffee, nice ambience, good tunes (I think they played Madeline Peyroux the whole time which made me very happy.). They also make a good cappuccino. (Though, to be fair, I don’t think I’ve had a bad one yet–even at the basic train stop cafes. Is Italy really so good at them or do I have seriously unimpressive tastebuds?) This is worth a stop to sit and sip.
P.S. Artigianale basically means “artisan/craft” so you are bound to see this a lot. For instance, “Gelato artigianale.” It’s basically always a positive, so go to these places.
Ditta Artigianale
Via dei Neri 32
La Menagere. This place is probably one of the most beautiful coffee shops/restaurants I have ever stepped foot in. I think I actually gasped when I went in. Eye-candy EVERYWHERE. I’m sure they are completely over women like me snapping pictures with their iPhones or cameras instead of sipping the damn coffee they just ordered but it is beyond. (A few pictures of the place above.) There is a flower shop in it, some kitchen goods, breakfast, and then lunch/dinner. There’s also this enormous table (like 50 seats) where you can sit for dinner, amongst strangers. It’s stunning. It has these enormous doors that open right out onto the streets, lots of tables, free wifi. Jazz on the basement level certain evenings. One time we went and it was totally great, the other time the service was sub-par but I forgive them because the place is just too pretty so I will forever give it a second chance. Also, the woman who runs the flower shop there is super sweet. And her arrangements are unreal (click on the link and scroll through!). Bonus, the street it’s on has some good shopping and is right by the Duomo.
La Menagere

Via de’Ginori 8r

Il Latini. We met Jora and Bryan and kids here and it was one of our favorite meals of the whole trip. Since you won’t be able to actually meet this fabulous family (who’s well-versed in all things Florence after spending a lot of time there) and have them order for you, I’ll tell you what to get because it was all delicious (and for those who recommended Gato e la Volpe on IG, this is similar but better). Ribollita! Pappa al pomodoro! Steak! This is all ultimate comfort food. The steak will be as large as your head and really, really delicious. Like you’ll want to go in face first. The ribollita was on a huge dish, and passed, family style as well as the pappa al pomodoro that came in a big white bowl. Whether this is how it always is or whether Bryan and Jora specified in Italian, I’m not sure. We also got a mixed appetizer–bruschetta mista (mixed) and one had chicken liver on it. At first I was like… no. Then I ate more than my share because it was so good. I would recommend that you go here. That’s probably obvious.
Il Latini

Via dei Palchetti, 6R

Gucci Museo. Right on Piazza della Signoria, there’s a big, classy outside seating with both tables and chairs and comfy couch-like spots to plop down on. (On second thought, don’t plop. It’s Gucci after all. Sit down daintily.) We went here after sandwiches so it was mostly for a small bite and wine. The waiter was one of my favorites yet. Nice, professional, great presentation with the wine. You know how at fancy place they pour a tiny bit in someone’s glass and that person tastes it? That was Steve and if you know Steve you know he’s not really equipped to be the “taster” (nor am I!) but he put on his sommelier hat that day and was all, “Yes, very good.” We also got a selection of cheeses and some bruschetta. All really good. There’s a bookstore and coffee shop inside and also a museum, I suppose? But, surprise surprise, I’m specifically talking about the restaurant here. A sometimes good rule of thumb is to avoid most places on the big piazzas but not this one. This was great, and has a killer view. (Also recommended to us by Bryan and Jora–you can’t miss with them!)
Gucci Museo
Piazza della Signoria

 

What else? Walk the streets! Get gelato! Get coffee! Sit on a stoop and watch the motorcycles buzz by! Cross the Arno and walk along the Pitti Palace or the Piazzale Michelangelo or Fiesole (though I’ve heard some say that’s overrated? And if it’s for views alone, I think you can get them without going so far out of town?). Ride the carousel in Piazza della Repubblica! Look at the statues in Palazzo Vecchio! One of the days we were there, a huge group of school children from Rome were on a scavenger hunt. Two of their tasks were: 1) to explain the statues to a tourist and 2) take a selfie with a tourist. Needless to say, I’m in at least eight selfies. I imagine them showing their teacher for a grade at the end, “That girl… again?!”Edited to add: Il Mercato Centrale! Such a fun place to hang out. Similar to Eataly, if you’ve been. Fresh food all around. You can eat and drink there, take food away, groceries… even a cooking school. (And burgers for the one’s missing home.) Check it out!

Enjoy Florence. It’s so great.
(And add your own recommendations below!)

weekend links.

Look up! Look down! The churches are pretty spectacular here. We duck into almost every one of them. This shot was at San Giovanni in Laterano.

I’ve always been a huge Aden + Anais fan. Now these?! Love.

How about this for a teacher’s gift?

I ate ribollita twice in Florence and now I want to have a really great recipe in my repertoire back home. It was so good. (Proclaiming I have a “repertoire” makes me sound much more together than I really am.) I’m starting with this one. Can’t beat Ina.

I’m hearing so much about this kid toy. I think it’s going to be on Parker’s Christmas list (whether he knows it or not).

Have you seen this round-up of 27 Airbnbs you have to stay at before you die?! One is a SKI LIFT.

I’m making this monkey bread as soon as I’m home.

30 Things you Need by the Time You’re 30. Some of these made me chuckle.

Have you guys heard of The Hatchery? I’m intrigued.

These ankle boots are awesome.

See you next week!

Food + churches.

Today I spent the majority of Anders’ morning nap going down the rabbit hole of THE BEST PLACE TO EAT IN ROME THAT ALSO COINCIDES WITH THE GENERAL DIRECTION OF STEVE’S TOUR DE ROME AGENDA. He takes the tour seriously, I take the food seriously. If ever he pushes it too far I’m like, “You don’t want me to run out of milk do you and then Anders starves and then where are we?!“

I really do like the places we’re going. I can (and I do) appreciate a beautiful church. San Giovanni in Laterano for instance. The statues of the disciples, the symbolism, the floors, the ceiling. And then the history underneath San Clemente? You can’t take a step in this city without stumbling upon something really, really important it seems. But, my expectations are still kept at a minimum. If Anders falls asleep in the stroller forcing me to plop down on a pew and guard with the stroller while the rest of them head downstairs to the base floor of some fabulous church lest we wake the baby (never wake the baby), then so be it. I may not get to see it all, but I get the extra piece of bruschetta and that last glug of wine as payment!

After checking Google Maps, Trip Advisor, and Steve’s agenda, I came up with Da Enzo. Italian restaurants are funny. You can’t judge a book by its cover, nor can you judge a restaurant’s food by the interior of the place is what I mean. It can appear like a little hole in the wall, the ambience can be so-so, and bam! Here’s a plate of sloppy burrata, diced tomatoes, a bowl of carbonara with the-perfect-thickness bites of pancetta and yolky sauce and it’s delicious. That’s true in places besides Italy but I find it’s especially common here. Ambience can be whatever, but it really isn’t a reflection of the food. Another example: Steve and I both had the most delicious bowls of barley soup yesterday at a roadside cafe that was no fancier than a 7-11 on the inside. A drizzle of olive oil in our soup and everything.

So I guess the moral of this story is try everything because you just never know. The other moral is try Da Enzo. The food is delicious.

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